Frequently Asked Questions

:: What's the difference between an SJ413 and a Samurai?
:: What engine sizes were fitted to the UK SJ range?
:: What's the largest mud terrain tyre I can fit to a standard vehicle?
:: Will taking my anti-roll bar off kill me at the first bend I come to?
:: What should I look out for when buying an SJ/Samurai?

What's the difference between an SJ413 and a Samurai?

The Suzuki SJ was introduced to the UK in 1983, this was replaced in 1989 with a slightly revised version called the Samurai. Some of the differences the Samurai has over the SJ are listed below:

:: Revised and slightly more powerful engine. Later Samurai's have fuel injection
:: Wider axles
:: Different dashboard
:: Different ratio diffs, transfer case
:: Bodywork differences - wider wheel arches, 'bulge' in the bonnet, side repeaters moved to behind the front wheel, 'Samurai' badge on front of wing

What engine sizes were fitted to the UK SJ range?

:: SJ410 = 1.0 litre 4cyl
:: SJ413 = 1.3 litre 4cyl
:: Samurai = (all) 1.3 litre 4cyl

Wheat's the largest mud terrain tyre I can fit to a standard vehicle?

215/75/R15 MTs will fit on a standard Samurai, although if the springs are sagging or the anti-roll bar is removed, they may just catch the top of the wheel arch on full articulation.

Tyres larger than this will require a suspension/body lift and maybe the front bumper mounts trimming/removing and the wheel arch seem flattening by the bulkhead.

Will taking my anti-roll bar off kill me at the first bend I come to?

No, depending on how you drive it! Removing the anti-roll bar will allow the front axle to articulate more when off road. It will also 'soften up' the front end. I found that this made on road driving a bit comfier, although there was a slight increase on body roll on corners.

What should I look out for when buying an SJ/Samurai?

Always buy on the vehicles condition, not age! Second-hand parts are relatively cheap and easy to fit, so don't worry too much about high milage trucks.

The main problem these trucks suffer from is rust. Usually the first to go are the wheel arches, so have a good poke around with a screwdriver. Also check sills, floorpan (pay particular attention to the seem behind the front seats, pull the carpet up to have a look), windscreen surround and bonnet.

Mechanically they are usually bullet proof. Diffs, props, T-cases, gearboxes and engines will go on for ever with proper maintenance. T-cases often whine slightly so don't too much, unless it's rather loud